TNH

Wow - what a place.

We just cruised by and bought creme caramel without even leaving the bike. In fact they didn't even hand the bag to us they looped it straight over the luggage hooks and we were on our way.

We got them home and, yes, totally creamy and totally caramelly wonderfulness.

A bit sloppy, but you can put that down to the heat...but absolutely the tastiest CCs I've ever had.

Pure Hanoi. Purely fabulous.

The next time I come here, I won't be so foolish as to have eaten dinner beforehand - the more room for Kem Caramen and Sua Chua Nep Cam the better.

Quite possibly THE tastiest Creme Caramel I've ever had - and it was only 4,500. Beat THAT, Nestlè!

As you live in any new country or city, be mindful of your surroundings. Look out for locals hanging out at a particular stall. Stop just there! Pull a stool and have a seat! Eat among the locals! You will definitely enjoy it. Don't worry about not speaking the lingo. Just point to the dishes that you see the locals are enjoying. Tell them the portion you want and you will be served. Watch how the locals eat the goodies and do likewise. Hmmm..... very delicious!

And yeah, Dương Hoa on Hàng Than street is a spot for you. The shop has been there forever. They serve Sữa Chua Nếp Cẩm & Kem Caramen with less than 10,000VND/glass. Teeming traffic aside, Hanoians regardless of age or class come here for those goodies.

Uh, Sữa Chua Nếp Cẩm! who would have thought that a couple tablespoons of sweet yogurt floated on top of some fermented red sticky rice would be good....by oh my it is..... If you eat it on an empty stomach... like at 10 am when you forgot your breakfast, it might give you a little buzz, and it also makes a great dessert when you have it late in the evening.

For someone who loves food, sweets in particular, and at the same time cares about one's weight (and health), being introduced to the kem caramen of 29 Hang Than, is a real problem. I was first brought here by my good friend, a local Vietnamese girl during my first few days in Ha Noi. I was at first put off by the small plastic stools (which made me feel like I was almost eating on the floor) and the tissue scattered on the streets, among other sanitary concerns. But as I looked around, the place was full of young people, some smartly dressed that I felt may be it is safe to eat there because so many trust enough to eat there. The other caramen shops around the area (there are several along Hang Than) did not have as many customers. My friend said that 29 Hang Than had the best caramen. I then realized that kem caramen is a combination of creme brulee (without the hard caramelized top) and my own country's (Philippine's) custard, leche flan (except that the caramen is much lighter and less creamy). It was yummy. After that visit I was able to taste other caramens here in Vietnam (they are sold in each street corner, even in supermarkets) but the best really is in 29 Hang Than. It's almost like it is mixed with coffee--there is a burnt, coffee like taste to it which other caramens do not have. The texture is light and it is not so creamy that one could eat 3 at a time (like me, if I don't exercise control).

I always come back to 29 Hang Than to buy my supply of caramen and nep cam (yoghurt with fermented purple sticky rice) which is also my favorite. During my last visit the store had another yummy addition to their menu--coconut jelly! The jelly is inside an actual coconut and you can scrape the flesh of the coconut once you have finished eating the jelly. The caramen here is much more expensive than in other stores (it is 6,000 dong) but I really don't mind because the price is so worth it for the quality of the product.

This shop has good sữa chua nếp cẩm ("dark red sticky rice yoghurt"). I can't say they have the most delicious sữa chua nếp cẩm in town but their shop is near the old quarter.
If you come, you should try mango jelly with milk (called "chè xoài"), it's unique as far as I know. They also have French style baked cakes and many other foods made with milk.